\ 



gc ie i^ t if ic, gy i te rcji 



'^O F-c^ 



Dress C'^'ttinq 



<2- FO R <^ 



SELF=INSTRUCTION. 




PUBLISHED BY ^*nlP^^^ f^ 

THE DRESSMAKERS' TRADE SCHOOL. "V^VV \ S ^ 



'A 



l:>7 WEST mo STREET. 
NEW YORK. 



11 



INTRODUCTION. 



There are not many juople who devote time to the improvement of 
dress-cutting systems, Ijccause there are not many people- who have origi- 
nal thoughts or inventive minds. Most people do not like to think; they 
are inclined to adhere to old meth.ods, as they have learned them from 
others, and that is v/hy it is very seldijm that any new ideas are introduced 
in ciiimectiiin with dress-cutting sxstems. That is also the reasc/m whv 
tliere are so few really good dressmakers. The average dressmaker sel 
dom rises in skill and ability above the one wiio has been her teacher, and 
is satisfied with what others teach them, hut nccasionally there is one who 
studies her business for herself, and therefnre makes better dresses than 
others- The author is one of the few who have not l)een satisfied with 
what others have taught them. I have experimented and studied myself 
until I cotdd produce lu-tti'r wnrk than those who taught me. I made a 
special stiid\- of cutting and designing until I was satisfietl that I knew 
more abrjut it than most of the dressmakers and ladies" tailors. After 
learning the trade tlioroughl\' from a practical dressmaker, I procured every 
s\stem of dresscutting that I could find in Europe and in this country. I 
spared neither time nor money in obtaining them. After I had studied 
tliem all and felt that I was better infdrmed abnut dressmaking than others, 
I naturallv had a desire to teach others what I had learned, and that is one 
I. f the reascius wli\' I undertook to write a book <in the subject. 

This book is intended as a help to dressmakers, whose knowledge of 
ilresscutting is insufficient, and wdio desire to improve without special in- 
struction. It is also designed to be a text Ijook for dressmaking scho<ils, 
and as such it will greatly facilitate the study of the pupils as well as the 
work of the teacher. 

The system of cutting as outlined in this l)ook is superior to any other 
s\-stem hereluf<ire published. It is nnt nulv simpler and easier to learn,, 
but it will prnduce better fitting dresses than otli'-r systems. If the measures 
art- taken accuratelv and the work is <lone well, th.e tlress will fit without 
tr}ing it on. This is perhaps its greatest advantage, ior there are no other 
systems of which the same statement could be truthfully made. Another 
advantage of the system is its small mnuber of measures a.nd its simplicit\ , 
requiring less time to learn it than otiier svstems oil account of the small 
munber of details belonging to it. Another thing that nnist be mentioned 
is the fact that no chart, machine, drafting instrument or complicated scales 
are needed, and that an\ one in jjossession of the book can acquire and use 



12 



llic svsteni an\\\hcre. witln.mt huxiiii:^ any <jther contrivances. Nearly all 
other systems make use of some patented device, sucli as scales, charts, 
etc., without which the book or the system cannot be used. These devices 
do iiut seem i<i l)e as essential to the ilrcssmaker as they are to their in- 
\intiir, who makes it tti be a constant soi'rce of revenue to him. The ordi- 
I'.ary charts and drafting' machines are, as a rule, a hindrance in making 
. t;-ood dresses for persons of varying;' figures, while the scales are a useless 
incumbrance, making it harder and more expensive to learn a system with- 
out any corres])onding benefits. 

The scales can easily be di'^pmsed with by the dressmaker who is 
thoroup'hly comjjetent, but the in\entor cannot do without them, because 
lie would lose the means of selling a high-priced s\stem of his own. The 
system explained in this book will enal)!e any one to do without devices of 
any kind, except a pencil and tape mtasure. 

'( )ne of the systems advertised most is m;ide of metal, and it is de- 
scribed as a I'rench (larment Drafting Machim-. It is claimed bv the man- 
ufacturers that it saves time and does good ',\(irk. The machine is in- 
genicnis enough in itself, but it can never take the jilace of brains, and is 
certain!)- a di^adxaiU.-'ge for leaniiiig the an of dress-cutting well. It will 
nut ])roduce good dresses in all cases, and the])erson who can cut oidv with 
the aid of this luachine cannot be considered comjietent 

Another useless coiUri\ance largely .advertised is a svstem based upon 
scales. It may be called a Ta\-lor syst<"m, but it is not a true tailor s\-stem. 
These scales m;ike it very hard to learti, for they make it necessarv to re- 
miinber many figures and useless details that are of no benefit. The svs- 
ti:ns based u])on scales require no charts, and are advertised for that reason 
as l)eing lietter than the s\stems based u])<>n charts or other so-cal'ed inven- 
tions, which is true in une respect at least; but the scales used in these sys- 
tems are just as useless as the charts or drafting machines in the (jther. If 
tile scales were dispensed with ana proper instruction and explanations 
based, u]ion inches substituted, the system cou'd be learned in less tiftie 
and would not be so easilv forgotten, hut the inventors of the scale systems 
wiuild, of course, lose a chance t.) sell a system at more than double price 
of their real value, and tiicy would lose their alleged claim of originalitv 
ami to a distinct system of their own. 

Methods of dress-cutting ,irc as universal as methods of arithmetic or 
l)eiimanshii). There is a difference in the skill (.f the dressmaker or the 
t.'acher, liut there are no patents that are any better than the methods used 



13 



i))- the intfllii^cnt dressmakfr. who iias im use for such inventions. 


Those 


wlio wish to atl; pt (Ircssnmkino- as a oaUini:;' should lie ^urc to 


learn a 


nicthdil without machines or scales, as the\ wnuld harili\ he able 


to find 


einplMViiunt il they were not able to s^et alori.tj withoiU anxthint;- 


excein 


iHiicil and tape measure. 





lil.VTS ON DRESSMAKING. 

There arc two things necessary ,to acquire proficieiicv in the art of 
making dresses — the one is practice, the other is good instruction. Good 
msiruction must natural'y precede the practice, for witJiout good instruc- 
tion there canr.ot he any satisfactory results. There are two ways to ob- 
tain the necessary instruction; the one is to serve an ajiprenticeship imder 
a dressmaker, the other is to attend a goo(l school or to have s])ecial in- 
struction. A few months of such systematic ir.struclion will give more 
knowledge of details than a few years of routine wrtrk with a dressmaker 
who has no <lesire to show' her those [larts of dressmaking that would en- 
able a girl to cut and make dresses IndependeiitK-. 

Many different things are nccessar_\- to make a perfect dress, and prac- 
tice in every detail is necessary to develop an expert dressmaker. Some 
time nnist be spent in learning to lake measure, in basting, boning, draping, 
trinuning, sewing every part of a ilress, cutting, designing, etc., and everv 
separate part of a dress, the skirt as well as the s'ecves and waist. re(|uire 
separate practice . 

TASTE AND jrnGMEXT IX DRE.SSMAKIXG. 

The mere ability to cut and sew mechanically does not constitute a 
good dressmaker. The dressmaker who desires to lie financiallv success- 
ful, as well as the lady who desires to make her own dresses satisfactorily, 
must have some taste ;uid judgment in regard to c'llor and stvle. The ccjlor 
of .goods must be in harmonv with the complexion, and the style must agree 
with, the hgtre of a person. 

APPROPRIATE COLORS. 

There are nci iro!i rules about colors, but whi'e tlie pr(iiier selection of 
colors is in some degree oidy a matter (jf judgment, there are certain prin- 



li 



ciplcs lh;.t sliouJil he understood by every dressmaker and every lady who 
desires to ih'ess becomingly. 

In regard to color I will repeat what has been written by others: 

Sallow vv<-inien should not wear creamy white, as it will emphasize the 
sallowness of their complexion. 

A fl(jri(l complexiiin Lk ks \\eli in bl.'ick, with a creanu' white front and 
collar, to soften the contrast. 

Red looks well with dark hair and fair skins, or flaxen-haired children 
a!id blonds. 

A ilulLcompkxii pu ma\ lie lightmed up with bright co'ors. 
■ I'alc colors are not becoming to people with pale cimqilexions. 

Shades iliar are bccuming in daylight may not Icmk well in the even- 
ing. Dresses to !)e worn in the e\i ning are often selected better in artiticial 
light than durhig tlic da\. 

There Ikivc bem nrun rules proposed by artists and literary pe(.)ple, 
but they ar" hard ici Idllnw. and if I mention these rules here, it is only to let 
each person form her owii ideas about them. 

A prominent witer sa\s th;it cimip'exion inust be the first thing to be 
Considered, then tlu' hair anil the eyes. About n.avv blue she says that it 
hac an old effect upon an\' skin except a fresh, ro.-^y blonde, but if you com- 
bine pink- or gold with it the entire effect is different. According to this 
th.i.^e who wish t() appear \onng must ;ivoid navv blue. 

For some people almost any color is becoming, especially medimn 
blondes. Liglit blondes can wear an\thing except deep pink, reddish [nir- 
ple, yi'llowish brown, gold and rvd 

A gray complexion must a\-oid navv Ijlue, l)rick red, yellowish green 
and tan colors. 

S:dlo\v brunettes must wear something that gives them the rosy flush 
which they need. They must avoid all blues, grav, violet, white and green, 
but tluir ajipearance will be improved by deep and rose pink, orange, yel- 
low, bright and dark red, reddish brcjwn and purple. 

Black is becfjming to most people. 

It is hard to remember all the principles of color. Taste and judgment 
mu.;: give the decision in most cases. 

APPROPRIATE STYLE. 
After considering color as regards complexion, we nutst consider style 
in regard to form, figure and size. \'ery few people are perfect in form from 



15 



an ideal stain lard of h^'auty. Sunn.- are ton stniit, some too short, >onie ton 
tall, some too thin, some have loiiij necks, some have toi.i short a waist, and 
so on. E\er\ huK ninst cover np any of these defects as much as possible, 
and everv dre^•^maker must know h'jw to harmonize st\le and figure. 

A slii'rt, stout worn; n should not wear sleeves as wide or l)ig as the 
l.'ul, thin woman, and the desij;n for the very tall wnman naturally differs 
from the design made for the very short WDUian. 

There are certain things that enii)hasize the natural deficiencies of the 
hod\' and the\- slmnld he ax'oided. 

\'-shaped necks should n(>t he worn liy wimien \\!in have a k'ng, thin 
face, because it will attract attention to the long face. 

Large belts, large nlaids, large figures as well as very rougli gomls 
shnuld be avoided b\' short and -lout persons. 

The slendir \\o;i:,ui of medium Mze can wear almost an\thing, but she 
is not so very fre(|Uent. 

The first aim (..f a dressmaker should be to regulate the dresses she de- 
siies to make, so as to di-gu''-e the bad |ioii:ts of a perMHi's apiJcarance and 
to eni])hasize lier gi jod points. .\ \i.r\ sin rt and stout pu'si n sl.ould air.i to 
;!p])ear more slender th;ui she i^. Wh.atever makes her appear to Ite ta'kr 
makes lur appear to be more ; lender. 

In making a dress for a very stolU person the dressmaker's aim should 
be to attract the e\es ni> and down the figure instead of across it. This 
can lie done bv md)rokin lines in tlie ])attern from neck to hem. trimmings 
that run up and down, narrow strips "i dress materials, etc. 

Tailor-made garmer.ts show a -iout figure to advantage. .\n over- 
^tout person should not h.ave her dresses too light. A siuu and s'ender 
woman ma^' wear large slee\es, but the\- should U'-t be so large as to be 
unnatiu'al. 

Wdiatever is suitalile for an over-stou.t person is to be avoided 1)\' the 
tlnn wuman. .\ thin woman can adopt tluft'y fashions that make her appiar 
siouter than she is. Ti-innniugs on hei- dress should go across instead <>{ 
v.\> and down on lur dress. 

Everv good dressmaker studnes these points for herself, and w;ll find 
this very eas\- work if -he will bear in nund that her object is alwa\s to 
conceal the weak points ;ind emi)hasize the good onis in tl.e hgure and 
complexion of her customer. 



16 



DRESS CUTTIXG SYSTEMS. 

Ill order to accomplish our objects, that is, to adopt the style of a 
lad\'s dress to her figure, we must have a good system of designing and 
cutting. \\'e cannot, as a rule, ute ready-made patterns, lor they rccjuirc 
too many alterations and are for persi-ns of average llgures. It is not safe 
tr- use aii\- reach-made chart i r drafting machine system either, because 
such instriinients do nut ada])t themselves to different shapes as accurately 
as iKcissary. It may be possible to use them fur .my size and form, but 
in many cases they rci|uire loo niaii_\ alterations, and the changes are too 
difficult tu make fur persons who have nut learned the art of designing 
withuut ihe aid of such instruments. 

'riure are a great m:ui\ dififereiit systems taught bv dress-cutting 
schools; liul vi'ry few good unes. .Many schools use chart.-, or drafting 
machines, which, tlu'y chum, saves time. These so-called inventions are 
used to make niuney on tliem. Practical dressmakers, as a rule, du withuut 
any patented device. Tliey sim])ly use a tape measure, a ruler and pencil, 
and in this wa_\ lluy do belter work tlian can be done by any drafting in- 
strument. 

(.)ir, of ihe uMest wa_\s of cutting is to pin uii the figure of the cnsloiiui 
a lining of cheap nins'in and tu fit the lining tu the figure, but this is not 
as satisfactory as the mudern v.av of drafting a pattern of the dress (jii ])aper 
1 nd tranferring the lino diawr, en the goods by a tracing wheel. The 
paper pattern can be dispensed with, too, b_v experts. 



-^i 







DESI(1\1X(1 AM) CU'ITIXC;. 

If we wisli t') rut a ilrrss w r hr-t make a paUeni 0:1 I'laper. This |)re- 
veiils lis I'riini si»]ilii!L;- nidre expensive I'.iatenal. We always liei^in with the 
waist. We ean make tlie ]iattern hi aeeiir.ate th.at trying- on heennies un- 
neeessar\'. The siirest \\a\ to di tiiis is to <h-al'l (he pattern in a si|uare. 
TJ\- mea^iirm;;' tlie s]);;ee from the sliotilder serm down t ' 'h.e stomaih, as 
ill ilhistiation \'o. l, we find th.e 'envjh of tlie sipiai'e. 



c^-^ 



"£-^ 







It is verv impe,rtant to he very exact in taking;- tliis measure. I'.efore 
oi ini^'- anv lurtlier we n i\v take this measure, and either write down the 
iiumh'-r of indies we reipiire or carry the fii^nire in our memory. 



1)? 



Next \vc require the measure for ihi' wiiltli of the sciunre, which i> fmnid 
I)y tni<iiig the measure all around tlie bust, close under the arms, allmving 
alxn-t one inch more, so as rot to get the waist t( ci tight. 

We rc(|u;re only cne-half of this whole lni;t lueasure for the wiilth of 
till' S(|uare. hecinisc vvc only draft a half-jiattern, on account of the goods 
being fcilded double, md Ijoth sicks of the front and back of a waist can 
be cut al the same time. The following illustration shows how the meas- 
ure for the widlh of tb.e square is taken: 




Having taken this lucasure, wc immediately draft the square. We 
take a large sheet of cheap paper, eitlier manilla or any other kind we 
can buy in a stationery store. We first draft the length of the square, con- 



19 



fisting of two liivjs drnun di iwnwanl from the top of tlie paper, cf|iial in 
length to the nnnilier (if inches we rei|nire, aecurding tn onr nieasnre. We 
can dispense with the h'lie 'in the left-hand side li\' using the edge of the 
paper instead of the iiiie. Ihe line nn tile ritj^-ht-hand siile is drawn at the 
proper distance fmni ihe etlge of the paper or from the left-hand line (if 
we make use (if that line), as determined hv the measure taken fdr the 
width. 'Jdie fc.!l(.wing illustration represents the s(juare we h.ave to draft: 



WiMtll Cif till' 




Wicltli "f Ihe S.nia 



The lines marked width represent the width of the s(iuare, which cor- 
responds in length with the numljer of inches we f(^un(l hy our second meas- 
urement. If the fece nd measure, as taken for the width, or rather half of 
it, as wc require, is twenty inches, tin right-hand downward line is drawni 
twenty inches apart fnun the left-hand line (or the left-hand edge of the 
paper, if we use that ui'-ttad of the left-hand line). We next have to draw 
the top line for tlie width of the s(iuare. We can dispense with this line 
also by using the top edge of the i)aper. Next we draw the lower line 
for the width, vhich any cne can easily do correctly by referring to the 
above illustration. The laigth of the lines is determined t)y the measures 
we have taken. In this case we will assume tliat the length is i8>2 and 
the width lojj inches. We now draft the square based upon this meas- 
ure. Having drawn the sc;uare correctly and accurately, we can proceed 
to take the measures for the waist. 



■30 



TAKING MEASURES. 

A practical system rct|uircs eight measures for the waist, not inckiJing 
the sleeves. The\- are (i) the front length. (2) chest. (3) back length, (4) 
back width. (5) waist, (6) hi]). (7) side, and (8) the shoulder measure. 

liefore going any further, ccjiiiniit to memory the names of lluse meas- 
ures in their (jrder. so tl'.at when takiiig measures you can ([iiickly write the 
numbers down, oi^e under another, without the necessity of writing the 
words "Front length." etc.. too. 



MEASURE Oh" Tllh: IRo.XT LEX(;TH. 

Now wt' learn to :iieasure the front length ot the waist. This is from 
the holldw (if the neck. l)tlow thi, chin. i!<iwn to the centre of the stomach, 
;,s in the ilhistration ]>ri-nted bel'iw. We do not take this measure very 
tight. Whenever we have ascertained a measure, we write the ntimlier of 
inches liowii. \W never take tile measure by the waist a ladv wears, bin 
we meastire tlie body, s(j as to avoid the mistakes that may liave been 
made bv otlier drtssmakei's. 




Illustration showing how to take the front measure. 



il 



("HF.ST. 

Tlic sec('ii(l nuasurv' \\c ri'(iiiiii- is the dust iiH'asurc. Mfasiiro fnnii 
ami til arm, alx ut tlirrc im lus lieluw tlic Imlldw nf tlic iKck. placiiiL;' [\\v 
I ape at the puiiit where the arm j'piiis into the trur.k. (See illnstratinn,) 
Tliis measure slimilil he tak'-'ii siuil,'-. 

Care must he taken in. this measure not to have it too tifjht or \i<n 
loose. The eleg'ance and comfort i^ained in tittin.L; a tiL^ure (le])en(ls ujion 
ample fullness in front, witlnnu ereasinc^, ami a close <ir a tipht-lutint;- h.ack. 




Illustration showins; how t(. take the chest measure. 



22 



r.ACIv LEXCTII. 

( )ur thinl inoasure is tlio hack I'Misjth. W'c measure from tlio iicck 
in tlio hack almut the hei^imiiiiL; i>f the s])inal enhimn td the joint in. the 
ijaek even willi the iiips wliere we bend our l)aeks. (See iUnstration.) 



^-%^/;> 



<C '^N^-^^V 




Ilhistratii-ii showinp;- liow to measure the \>nck lenc^th. 



HACK wiinii. 

( )nr fijurth iiu_aMirc is tlic li;ick wiilih. \\ c iiKasiirc tlu !p;Kv in tlio 
li:u-k -luii^'-K' acrdss the sIm hiIiKts fmni arm tn arm almut live iiiclics lu.lciv, 
tile neck. (See illiif.trati< ui | 




Ilhistratioi; bhouiiiL^ li'-w i" take the measurt' fur the hack widtli. 



34 



WAIST. 

The fifth iiKasurc is tlie waist. \\\- take the measure all aruund the 
waijt, rather liLrhth'. as in the fdlldwiiiLT illustratinn. 




Illiistratidii showinir how to take the waist measure. 



25 



HIP, 



Tlic sixth mrasuic is the hip. We take this measure snugly all an>uii(l 
llie hips, ahuut six inches bih/w tli- \v;iist measure. I See illustratinn.l 




llhi.^trati<.in showniy how to take the hip measure. 



2G 



sun:. 



Our sc\-cntli incasurL' is tlie side. W'r nicasuri- frnni under the arm 
down to the hip. l)i ^iuuint;' as hit^h andtr the arm as possible without hft- 
iiiLr the arm. Lei the arm haii<2' down. (See illustration.) 




Illustration showm"- hew n; take the side nieasur 



27 



SIK^ULDER. 

Tlu ci,L;lnli in'.-aMirc is ;!k- sbnulikr. W'c 1nv.'a^ll^^.• fn.iii tlif neck to 
llic l-all in the shouMcr juini. (Sec illn-lratiun.) 







ITiistration sLowin.c: ln'W ii'' wl<c the shoulder measure. 
This completes our nunsr.rts. The nuniher of ir.chci found I'v takin;T 
th.e different measure,. r,;u-t l)e written i\< \vn immediately after takin.,,^ each 
measu-e. If our measu'-es have all l>een taken coructlx \\ e can l)e;^Mn to 
draft the pattern for the waist. 



9ft 



A COMPLETE WAIST EATTERX. WITII EAT. 



Ilefiirc the ililTcrcnt |iait? nt a pattL-rn arc studied scparatel\ , it will he 
wxV t(i have a vii-\v of a complete waJst pattern, so as to have in yniir 
mind's e\ e an idea nl li'.e fm:'.! (ihjcct we iiave to accom])lisli. W'c there- 
fiire |iresent nn this liaise a ccimidetc diagram re])resentini:; a scientific sys- 
tem of drafting' |iallern>. \ pattern dratted in this mrunier will ])rockicc 
the most perfectK and e!i-L,^;intI\ tittint;' waists. The experienced cutter, 
will' has an inferior ssstem. will readily understaiMl the diagram and he 
ahlc to make u^e of ihe s\ ^tem without sincial explanations or instruc- 
tions, hut the l)eL;'inner will rei|uire some hell), which will be yiven in the 
next part of this hook. 




20 




30 



DRAFTING THE WAIST. 
We art now ready to draft a pattern for our waist. \N'e will base our 
first pattern, wliieh wc draw on paper, for praetiee on the following nieas- 
nrenients: 

1. l''ront I(.ngth 14)., inches 

2. Chtst IJ 

3. Hack lent;tli 16 

4. Hack widtii 1 1 ;,-j 

5. Waist 24;/j " 

(). Hi]) 40 

7. Side (under arm I S' /> 

8. Shoulder t,' 2 " 

riie Invsi part of oui' work is to draft liie sc|uare. wlneli has lieen 
explaineil before. The snp|iosed lentjth of our square is iS'j inehes. and 
tile width is l<;'.' inehes. If the .-.(piare has been dr;wii correetK in a 
sheet of paper a little larger than the size of the scpiare, as seen on the 
large sample in the back of tlie l)eKik. we caji begin otu- woi'k. 

The pajjcr should be at least six inches 'onge'r than the length of the 
square, and a few inches wider than the width. 

W e call the lower line of our square the waist line. 

We begin by laying the measure at the lower !eft-iiand c(,nier < i the 
si|uare: we measure upward on the left line and make a mark at the 
innnber of inciies you have taken for th<' Ir' iit length if waist, which is 
14/2 inches, according to the measure we use. See il'ustration. 

We nuist be very exact in all measures, making tlu'in neither ovK' 
hair's length more nor less than the measures we have taki'n 

Xow ])lace your measure on the upper left-hand corner of the sc|uare, 
nieasiu'e on upper line, and make a dot four inches from the corner of the 
square, to indicate the pi.irt. wh.ere we begin to cut out the neck, as in 
the followinc; illustration: 




Illustration shewing where the ni.irks are made to indicate the froti; 
''-■ni.''th and the neck points. 

In our sample measure the dot is locat.'d four inches from the let't-hand 
corner. 

This ])oint. which i- the ])ltcc where the goods are cut for the neck 
space, is ascertained acce-rding to th.e following rule: If the bust measure 



:u 



(.f tlie person is 38 inches or ninvanl, :is in our case, it is four inches from 
the left-hand corner of tlie s(|uare. 'Hie bust measure is the measure we 
liave taken in determinins' the wiiUh of "ur s(|uare. aiwl is twice as lari^'C 
as our square width, l-'or perst.ns almve 14 years, who liave less than 
^cS incites hust im-a^urc the pnint [nr cutting;' the neck mit is ^' _, inches 
from the left-hand cnrner. In nmst cases. naniel\ . with persnns of very 
regular ti£;'ure, the pnint referred to is almost equal to the shoulder, hut it 
is not safe to relv on this, and it is liest to fidlrnv the rule mentioned. 

In patterns lor children the shoulder measure is taken as the standard 
for the size of tlu' n'(k. In our case the point is four inches from the 
left-hand c TUer. hecaus'- our Imst measure is more than 38 inch.es. 

( )ui- next task is to ilraw a eur\ed line, to show where the ycitids are 
to lie cut for the neck. 

I'lefore we can <lo this, we ilraft a. one-inch straight line downward 
fiiim the neck point on tlie top line, .uul another straight, vertical line of 
one inch inside from tiie iirst dot made on the left-hand s(iuare line, and then 
w' draw a cur\-eil line. i;onncetin,L;' the two straight lines, as in the ne.\t 
illustration. 




Thrise who have anv dithcultv m drawnig tins curved line gracefullv 
and accuratelv. can make use of a curved ruler, as furnished to the piu"- 
cl asers of this book. Whui the shapes of all the curved lines re(|uired are 
hrmlv fixed in the mni'l of the learner, the curved rult/r may he dis- 
pensed with. 

In the hack of this book will be fouml a model waist, drafted m lull 
size, based on the measurememts printed al)o\e. 

It nia> be 01 some assistance t( the student to examine this model 
As it is looselv fa-ieiK.d, it niav be taken out of the book. 

All other iihistratious m this 1 k are made in miniature form. 

The diagrams illustrating the different steps for drafting a plain wais, 
vill contain a repetition of the previous steps, so as to sh<wv at any time 
the evolution of the drawing. The student does not repeat them, but com- 
pletes the entire drawing in the same s<|uare. 



32 



( )ur next task is to indicate the shoulder measure on the top hne ol 
the square. We do this by measuring' on the top hne. from the cur\-ed 
line we have (h-a\vn for cutting- out the neck, to a ])oint as far from it as 
the length of our shmilder measure, which is 3' _> inches in oin' sauijilc waist 

We now draft a straight line of one mch; downward from this point, 
and then a slanting line from the neck to the lower point, as in the next 
illustratiiiu. 

Having- drawn onr curved line for cutting out the neck, and a slant 
liiu- lor the shoulder seam, wc have to do something to gi\-e a proper 
shai)c to the front (^f the waist. 

In all well-sha])ed persons the higln-st jioint nf the bust is about one 
inch alxne tlu- middle of the distance Iietween ilie reck and the stomach. 

To shape the l)ust propcrh'. we re(|uiri- two au\ili;ir\' lines. 

We la_\- the measure at the Ijotiom left-hand corner of the stjuare 
again, divide the Icng'th of \\-aist betw-een neck and stomach, which is the 
front length measure, in two e(|ual pai'is. make a d<^t. and fo m this 
])oint measure iqnvard one inch; make another dot. and ilrait two 
.straight lines to the centre of the square for the bust lines, as in tl;c 
next illustration. 

Xow we make a point one inch inside from the bottom left corner, 
and from it draft a slanting Hne up the front to the knver bust line. 

We alsd make a ])oint one inch inside at the neck liiic. and from it 
(Iraft'i a slanting line down the front to the upper bust line, as in the n.ext 
illustration. 

This is now onr real front line, from winch all measures for the darts 
must be takeii. 

We now have to place the side seam We take half of the bottom 

square line, beginning with the front line in our ca-^c {')' 4 inch.es), make a 

point and draft upward from it the side line, as high as our side measure 

re(|uires, which is 8'j inches in our measure. 



AR.M IK )Lh:. 

( )ur next task is to draft the arm JKile. To do this we need our 
chest measure, which is 12 inches, ar.d as we draft but half the pattern w-e 
take half of the chest nuasure, that is, 6 inches. We lav the measure on 
the slanting- line drawn lengthwi.se from neck to ui)])er bust line in the 
centre, where we make a dot. and draw- a straight vertical line, 6 inches 
long. (.See illustration.) 

The new- line we ha\-e drawn imlicites the width of the chest and the 
drstance of the arm holes. We now recpiire a cm ced line for the arm ho'e. 

We now- draw a line downward froiu the shculder \r ,:ul to the chest 
hne. connuence at the top, and curve this line, making the cur\-e about 
'4-inch tow-ard the left. (See illustration.) 

We now- extend the curved line from the chest point to the upper 
bust line, and continue tl.e cun-ed line to the upper point of the side line. 

This jirocess conii)letes our arm hole. 

Our next illustration shows all the stens described above. 



33 




84 



DARTS. 

Having completed the arm hole, we have to make the darts. 

The new lines in the next iihistratinn show luiw the dart lines are 
drawn. 

To place them properly w© measnre frcrm the innit line on the waist 
line three inches, and make three marks, each :a\ inch ajjart. 

The first inch from front line on wnist line allows fi>r huttnn holes 
or hooks, and the other two. inr-hes are for the first dart. (He snre that 
you do nut measnre from square line instead of front line, 'ilie front 
line is the slaiUed line u[nvard, as you will remember.) 

Xiiw measure from the front line on the lijwer bust line and make 
a dot three inches from the front: then flr;.ft a strai,i:,''ht line from the mid- 
ilie dot on waist line to this ])oint on bn.-t line. This line is the centre of 
your dart. 

Now draft lines upward from the first and third dots or inch marks, 
making pcaketi ])oint at the dot on the bust line, which completes the first 
dart. (See illustration.) 

We now make the second dart. 

We nteasmv from first dart. three-f|unrtt rs of an inch, inakiiii;- three 
dots, each '4 inch :i])art. At the to]) we measnre 2^4 inches from 
the first dart. Take the rider and measure from the centre point on the 
waist line tii njjper point, but extending- it up half way between the two 
tust lines, and <lraft this dart in the same manr.er as the first, (."^ee illus- 
tration.) 

The straight, slanted lines we have drawn camiot be used, as the darts 
are always curved, but the straight lines aid us in curving the darts projjcrly. 

The straight lines we have drawn are onh auxiliar\- lines, and guide 
us in curving the d;irts. We now draw a curved line, connnencing one 
inch lielow- the to]) to alunit 2'/2 inches above the waist line, making the 
curve at that poiiU about 'i inch from the straight dart lines. 

Xow draw this cur\-ed line fom^ times, one on the outside (.)f each 
slanted straight dart line. Xow draw another curved line in the same 
manner on the inside of the front line; that is, the real, slained front line — 
not the front line of the square. (See illustration.) 

If _\ou have a curved ruler, its use will greatly assist in drawing the 
curved lines for the darts. 



35 




S6 



BACK. 

We have now completed the front part of the waist, ami begin to 
draft tlie back. 

We first put the measure at the ri,L;:ht-liand lower corner of the square, 
measure up to the number of inches of ymir back lencfth, whatever it may be. 
In our sam])le measure it is i6 inches. At that jd.u-e wc make a dot, and 
3 J inch above it anotiier dot. hVom the last dot draw a straight, vertical 
line of 2J2 inches long mside for the back neck; 2'/. inches is the usual 
length (if the neck line. !-"r(im t!ic end of this line draw a cur\'ed 
line to the mark y<:)U made to indicate the back I'-ngili. (See illustratiiui.') 
The curved line is for the neck. In very stuut persnns the straight line 
is about yj inch longer, ami fur children ' .. nr 1 inch slujrter. 

We now have to draft a line for our back shoulder seam. 

To locate and slant this line correctly we re(|uire an auxiliarv line, 
which shcjws the correct height of the shcjulder line. 

.\<nv measure I'j inches downward from the dot made to indicate 
the back length, and draw a straight, vertical hue, forming a right angle, 
toward the middle of tlie squ-ire, as in the next illustration. 

Xow we draft our back shoulder line from the back neck point to the 
line we have drawn, only '4 incii longer than the front, because we 
always stretch the front shou'der in the goods. 

See illustration. 

lie sure that this back shoulder line is exactly '1 inch longer than the 
front shoulder line, as drawn in the front p.nri of \our i)attern. 

Xow we have to draft a liu'' on which we measure our back width, 
as in illustration. We draw this line ])arallel with the line we have drawn 
before, and 2^/2 inches Ixdow the same, ;is illustrated. 'Hie distance be- 
tweenl these two lines is always equal to the lengtli of the line drawn to 
slant the neck, which is also 23/> inch.es. 

Our next task is to draw a line for the centre seam in the back of 
the waist, as illustrated in our next diagram. We draw a line upward, be- 
ginning on the bottom line of the s(iuare, one inch from the right-hand 
corner up to the neck point, which is the point indicating the back length, 
as stated before. (See illustration.) 

ARM HOLE. 

Now we have to draw a line for the back of th'? arm hole, as in our 
next illustration. The distance of the arm hole from the line indicating the 
centre seam is equal to one-half of our back width. In our sample meas- 
ure the back width is 113,-2 inches, and one half of that is 5^ inches. Xow 
measure on the lower line, which we have just drawn, and make a mark 
5 ',4 inches from the line indicatmg the centre seam in the liack. Xow 
draw a curved line from the "'shoulder point" down to the mark you just 
made on the lower line. From that point we now make a round ann line 
to the front arm line. The arm hole must be round like a ball. If it is 
not rouitd like a ball yoti have made a mistake. Our ne.xt 511ustration 
shows how the arm hole should be. 



37 




88 



After complctiiipf the arm hole, we have to draw a curved line to com- 
plete the hack, and; one for the side pfece. The centre back seam line is 
alread finished, and is the straight, slanted line we have drawn. The cnr\-ed 
line on the riijht-hanil vide m oin- next illustratiiMi shows the first line we 
rKjnire. A cur\ ed rnV-r is a Ljreat helii in drawing this line, but a little skill 
and practice will euaiile an\- one to do without it, although, of course, it is 
better to have a curved ruler i! it can be procmx'd. Tlie curved line must be 
drawn gracefully from the !i.wer poim ui the arm hole to the bottom line of 
the square. At the bottuni scjuare line it nnist be (ine inch from the line 
showing the centre seam, and two inches above the ciistance from that 
line nnist lie '4 inch mure. 

We now draw the line with the .lid of the curved nder, which will 
nialce il very ea^w i)Ut if we h;ive no curved' ruler we use the tape nu-as- 
ure instead. 

Xow lay the mep.sure on the lower ])oiiu nf arm iicile: ])ut the third 
finger of left hand on the measure at this poiiU, the secondj 1)elowi it and 
iirst finger l)elow the second, holding in this maimer your tape at an even 
round or curved iiosition, and make three or more dots on this curve, to 
indicate, api)roximately. where the line should be. This will make the line 
about half of its full length. 

To coin])!ete the line, move the measure down to the bottom line, 
hold it with tlie third finger of left liand, and with the right hand hold the 
tape on tlie u]>per poirt that we have made from the waist line. Hold tape 
at this i)oint, and with first and second fingers of left hand round the tape to 
an even curve and make a dot at each finger. 

.\ow draft >oiir line from your armdiole point to vour waist line, in 
a rt)und. evenly curvjd and slanted line to th.e bottom : not necessarily to 
meet each dot. but verv near them, because these dots serve as a guitle for 
the curved line. (.>ee illustration.) 

After completing this line we must draw the first line for the 
first side ])iece. In some waists we have two side pieces, and in others 
we use three. In our sn.niple w-aist we use only two. A well-built lady's 
measure around the waist is from 12 to 15 inches less than her bust meas- 
ure. There is a suqilns in the goods, therefore, in that part around the 
waist, and tiiis siiriilus i.s disposed of by cutting it out. just in the same 
])niportion as the person's measure requires. We accomplish this by 
(Irawhig another line in next illustration, separating from the second back 
seam, generally 2'/2 inches below the arm-hole line, keeping the two lines 
close together at the beginning, then slanting downward to the waist line, 
making them about '/j inch apart near the end, as in illustration. 

The space between the two lines, wdiicii is the surplus in the goods, 
w'ill be cut out. 

In dresses for ladies, whose waist is not smaller than the bust meas- 
ure, there is no surplus in the goods, and diere is nothing to be taken out. 



46 



As we use two side pieces in each siile in tlie hack of the waist, we 
have to (hvide the waist hne space hetwcen tlie last line drawn and the 
under arm seam (which is represented hv the line in the centre) int(5 two 
equal ])arts. so as to produce two i)it'ces of ecjual width. If 
tliree side ])ieces are used, the space mentioned must he di- 
vided into three ec|ual j)arts. In our sample measure we use 
nnly two side jiiects. Ilefore we can divide the space on the waist line, 
\\f uuist see how the ]K'rson"s actual waist masure agrees with our waist 
measure on the ])attern. after takiui,'' u]) a part in darts and seams. If this 
measure is exactly the same, the space will he divided exactly in the centre 
and oidy one line for the seam will he needed; hut if the actual waist meas- 
ure is less, tlun the surplus in the pattern luust he V.ikvn out in the centre, 
half ( f it on each side of the exact centre point of tlu line. In oui'^ sam- 
].)le waist the real waist measure is 24J S inches, of which we require only 
one-half, which is 12^4 ir.ches. Now yon ])lace your measure at the waist 
line on your real front kngth line, and measure the space from there to 
the real back line, le.avini^- mit the sjjaces taken u]) for darts and seams. 
Thus we find that we have ahout i 'j inches too nuich. .\ow make a dot 
'/:> inch from the under-arm line on the left-hand side, or '^ inch on each 
side of that line, which leaves us only ^5/j inch too nuich. As said before, 
r. ne-half of this space, i. e., H inch, is taken out on each side of the actual 
centre point mentioned. \ow we divide this sjiace, makint;- two dots in 
the middle. '4 inch a])art. 

In a like mamu-r we divide the space at arm hole, making the under- 
arm piece '/2 inch wider at the arm hole than th.e back side piece. Draw 
from this arm-hole point a s'anted, evenly curved line to point nearest back 
side seam on waist litie. I'rom same [xiiut on arm Imle draw second line, 
also evenly cur\-ed and slanted to second point. (See illustration.) 

A curved ruler shoidd be used. 

Except at the arm hole, the two side ])ieces should be of equal width, 
and the lines makinij the seanK nuist be started fr.jm a sharp peak at the 
arm hole evenly to the waist line. 

\\'e now draw a peaked, slanted line from the arm-hole line, begin- 
ning at the toj> of the side scam, to the only point you have left on waist 
line. y2 inch from th.e side-scam line, as in the following illustration. 



41 




43 



W'f have now ciMiipk-tcd llic jiaitcrn to the waist line, and have lin- 
■!. led r!l tl'.at is necessary for cnttini; a short waist, not to cover anv ])art 
of the hips. lUit .IS some waists are Ioniser and must he made to partly 
cover the wai: I. we nrast lemjthen our ]);ittern according^lv. I'or this pur- 
pose we al\\;i\s extend the -f|uare six inches helow I'.ie waist liriC, as in our 
nix; ilkr>rr;.t'on. Tlun we lengthen our darts six inches, extendin;.; them 
ti) the iK'w bottom line. 

.•\f. the hi]) measure is I.'U'ger than the waist measiu'e, we nuist widen 
the waist helow tlu- hip. ;'nd take out less material in the ilarts helow than 
We do at the waist line. We now iK'i;in to draw the extend.ed lines down- 
ward, as in till' next illustraiion. heginnint,'- with the front line. The dis- 
t.tnce of the front 'ine from the front or outside S(|u:\re line is one inch at 
the waist line, hut at tlie new bottom hne it must be oidy -v^ inch from 
tl.e front line. .Next, we extend oiu" back line in the same nu'nmer. mak- 
ini,>- the distance from the square lir.e '4 inch less at the bottom line than at 
tlie waist line. The same ])rinciple^ is carried out in extending tlie darts. 
We first lenjjtlun the centre line and extend it horizontally down to the 
bottom line. Then we extend the two outside lines of the darts. At the 
w.'iist line the hr,-I dart lines are- 'lue inch each frc ni the centre line, but at 
ih.e bottom line they nm.-.t be onl>' '4 inch less from the centre line, which 
makes the elistance q\\\\ ■}4 inch. Now we e.xtend the second dart lines. 
At the waist line the\ are only ^4 inch apart from the centre line, and at 
the bottom line the\- must attain lie '4 inch less apart: that is. only ,' .. inch. 

Having extended the darts, we take up the Itack. We first c'l'raw a 
straight line downwaril to the Ijotton: 'inc. beginning at the waist line in 
the centre, between last two lines, the back line and the first side seam 
liric, then we draw two slanted line.-', forming jjeaked point, extending the 
two lines above the waist line to the bottom line, as in illustratie)n. 



(Se illustiMtion •pii uc.\i (i.ige ) 



43 




44 



^^'e now come to tlie last lines, which complete the hips, and arr vers' 
ilirficult. They are an extension of the under-arni piece and side piece 
lines down to the bottom, anirl must be far ajjart at the bottom, because 
the hip meastire is nnuii larii'ir than the waist nieasure: but before we can 
draw these we must draw straifjht auxiharv lines, beginninij in the centre, 
at the waist liiu, one between the two lines indicatin.ST 'he nnder-arm 
^cani. and the nther between tlu' twn, indicating the siile seam, 
strai.ght down to the lidltom line, as seen in the i'lustration. 
\\'e now make twi> dcjts on the bottom lin'c. one on each side of the 
first auxiliary line, i ' 4 inches from it: then we make two more dots. on( 
on each side of the next auxiliary line, but one inch from it. .Since the hip 
measure is larger thru the waist measure, we must see that we nrovide for 
the extra width re(|uired in ac-ordance witli ciu" hip meastire. The largest 
l>art of the extra width is always required on the side, and on\v a very 
small part is needed in the front, where we have nlreads' iirovided for it in 
the darts, by making them smaller ;:t the bottom than on the waist line. 

Before we can draw the extended lines for the side pieces we must 
iind the space needed for tiiem. The hip nieasure we to'ok for our sam- 
ple waist was 40 inches. ( )f this we require only one-half, which is 20 
iiriches. We have lost a i)art of the width in the ]iattern. or rather, the 
giK.ds. by taking it U]) in darts, and as we must have the full width of 40 
(or ratlurr 20) inches for lur hi]> wc must make ui> in the width of tlie 
side pieces fi^r the space we lost by the darts. We now measuire on the 
bottom line to get our 20 inches, and begin from the front line. W^e 
first measure to the first dart line, and find the space in) our sample waist 
to be about \'A inches. The next space, which is taken up by the first 
dart, must not he measiu-ed. but we measure the next space l)etween the 
two darts, and add it^ width, whici' is about I'j inches, to the first space. 
The space of the second dart is r.gain omitted. We then nieasure from 
the last line of the second dart to the dot we made on the ri,glit-hand side 
I if the first auxiliary line, adding the space a.gain to the t^tal of the previous 
space, and so on I'rom there we .go l)r.ckward to the dot on tlie left-hand 
side of the first auxiliary line and nieasure to the dot made on the right-hand 
.'ide of the second auxiharv line: from there we go again back to the point 
on the left-hand side of the second auxili.-rv line, from which point we 
measure to the back line. If the total snace measiV"ed in this manner is 
ecpial to half of the hip measure, which is 20 inches for our waist, we can 
begin to draw the extended side-piece lines to the dots we made pre- 
'iously. If, however, we need more to get our full measure, we must 
'cmove the dots a little more toward tiie outside, so as to get the exact 
hip measure: or. if we have loo much, we must remove the dots a little 
inside, closer to the auxiliary line. Xow \ou draw the extended lines to 
cross each other, as in our next illustrajion. The lin'es cross each oth.,r 
about 5j inch below the waist line, but, if a person is very slender, the 
crossing point is made a little lower. 

( )ur next illustration concludes the ordinary ])h:in waist, and all dif- 
ferent sizes ivay l)e made in the same manner, liefore practicing different 
styles a number of plain waists, based upon different measurements, should 
be drafted. 

After finishing the pattern based upon the measurement in this book, 
the next pattern should be made for a person whose nieasure can be taken 
and who can V:\- on the waist, wdien ready, to see if it fits correctly. 



4.1 




46 




WATST WITH THRRF, SIDE I'lECES. 



niie alujvc ilhistr.ition represents a waist, will; three side pieces, wiiich 
is made in tlie same manner as the previons waist. Tlie only difference is 
that the space l)ctwecn front and iKick is divided into three eqnal ])ieces 
instead of two, and there are three hi]) line.> instead of two, als;). Tiiese 
waists entail a little more lal>or, Init are likely t') look better. The strais^ht 
Hue helow the waist line shows how the la]) ni;iy l)e shortened, by cnttinij off 
ihe [lattern where the line is drawn. l>y movins^ this line u])ward <5r down- 
\\:n\ we can repnlate the length of the la]) accordiny;ly. 



4'r 



ETOX ja(;kf.ts. 

Tlie F.tnii lacket differ,- from tlu- nlaiii w.-.i^t inaiiily in liaviiij;- lUMtln-r 
ilarts nor '^ii!c jiiccc^. 

To make an F-tiui Jacket. \vt' draw a. si|iia.ri', llie same as in a plain 
\\aisl, leavini;- at least six ineliij^ margin nn the lel't-lianil side nf tlie i}ai)er. 
■''lie fnmt lenL^tli. iieek. -liMidder. analiok-, l.aek a.nd side seams are also 
made in the same maniu r as in tlie pla.iii wa.ist. 

After that, measure at ;1k' holtom s(n;are line, ri:dve marks i ' .. iiiehes 
each side of the side line, and draw two slanted lines to form peaked iioiiit 
on the aniiJKjle line, as in illustration. Tiun di\ide the waist nn'asure so 
as to have one inch nioie fe-r the front th.an fi n- the b.ack, which L;i\'es as 
ill onr measure 5-'_j inches for the Ir.ck .and *i-| inches for the front: then 
measure 3 m inches i^n tl'e wai^t line for the ha.ck. maki ig' a mark there, 
and draw a slantt'il line npwa.rd to the neck |i"int. 

Afler thus completiuL'' the back' hue. measure ()>4 inches on tlie waist 
line in the olhc" direction fur the fmnt. inakdnL;' ;i nark there: extend the 
t(.p sipiare line six inch.rs li:w;ird the leftdiand side, and from the end ol 
thai line draw .a slanted line il(iwnw;;'-d to tlie mark mi the w.aist line and 
.iM.ut I ' J to J inches fr.ither. ami then ch-aw a curved line, as in illustra- 
ti'.n. 




48 



LOW-XECK WAIST. 

A lo\v-!K-ck waist is made almost like the ordinary waist, differing 
()nl\ in the neck, which is cut out as low iii front and hack as desired. 




40 



ENGLISH WAIST. 

Allow Ci inches margin on each side. Draft your waist line like 
the i)lain waist, except the back and the darts. Take for Ihe back 
jiiece on the waist line, 1 1-4 inches instead of 1 inch. 

Instead of making two darts, we make one as large as the two 
in the other waist. The dart is placed 1 :! 4 inches from the front 
(on the waist line) instead of 1 inch, and on the top it is about 1-2 
inch before the centre. 

If you want the plain lap, make it as in the plain waist, but if 
you want to have ripples in the back, enlarge your back and side 
pieces on the bottom line about 3 inches, or as much as is desired, 
slanting it into the waist line, as the illustration shows. 

If you want to have lapels, draw a slanted line upward from 
the lower bust line, thus extending the lower end of the front line, 
as in illustration. 




50 



COAT WITH LOOSE FRONT. 

As a coat is larger tliaji a waist, because it ha? to go over the waist, 
we must make the s(HK'ire in which it is (h'awn ahoitt one inch wider than 
lor the plain waist. 

Draw your waist as always, only make no dar+s. and leave the back 
piece one-half inch wider on the waist line than in the plain waist. 

We nmst have six inches margin on the left-hand side of the square. 

-Make the lap as always, regulating length according to your coat, 
v\ith loose front desire, then draw a straigh.t line upwardi from the bot- 
t)m line as high as the toj) line, about six inches fmm the front line, and 
then draw a slanted line frcjni the neck ])oint to the to]) of the long Ime. 




THE WRAPPER. 

In takiiii^- tin- nifasurc for it, we take the front length of waist and the 
skirt totrether, ])kicin,L;- tlie tape first at the hollow of the neck, and meas- 
ure to the stomach, and from there measure to the front of tlu' foot, and do 
the same in the hack. Then we draft a pattern for the i)lain waist, with 
two side pieces, and 6 inches lap, and cut it out as if you want to make a 
waist. Then place the front and under-arm seam toi;ether. takini^; care to 
have the waist lines meet. Xow measure from the hollow of the neck for 
the whole lenoth neeiled, and cut the .tjoods straight. Xow cut around vour 
pattern, allowing- the seams, and slant \our skirt on the side piece. ( If you 
want a loose front, allow as much as desired for fullness.) 

Xow we come to the hack. Eold the width of the snoods double, .-md 
])lace the pattern of waist hack on the jjoods. so as to have the arm hole 
from one to two inches from the selvedo;e. Xow measure vour whole 
length from the collar hone to the liottom. and cut the goods. Then cut 
around vour ])attern, cutting first neck, shoulder, arm hole an<l round 
back seam to one inch below the wai.st, and then in a right angle through 
the selvedge. This is a back with watteau pleat. If you want to have a 
ti<^ht-fitting back, cut \c>ur <'-oods so as to leave the seam in the centre. 

As the side pieces are cut separately, take the edge of the goods and 
place it even on the bottom, right on the edge of the back piece, winch 
you cut before, and as you allo'wetl 6 inches for the fold on the back' piece 
one inch below the waist, vou do the same on the side piece: then cut the 
goods like pattern, allowing the seams, an<l slant the skirt as in illustration. 




r.ASTIXG AND TRYING OX THE WAIST. 

After the waist pattern lias Ijeen drafted, tb.c next thing to do is cut- 
ting (lUl. hasting and trjing on. 

If all the work has l)een done correctl\. if the measures have been 
taken ];niperly and the drafting and basting done aectirately, tlie waist will 
lit perfectly, and trying on would not !)C necessarv, but, as most people 
;;re liable to niaki- mistakes in the I)eginning. it is safer to. try on liefoire 
sewing. 

In cutting out, follow the jjencil lines closely. 

First pin a piece of ])aper under the pattern, trace the front first, 
every line accurately, take the pins out, and then cut out the front. In 
the same manner, cut all other pieces out se])arately. 

After cutting out all the pieces we l)aste them 
with the l)ack seam, connnencing on the waist line. 

This must be in all other pieces in order to liav,- 
and form a straight line, the same as in the ])attern. 

After the back s'^am is finished, liaste nil the other seams in ihc back, 
as they folUjw in the drawing, sewing upward from the waist line; then 
take tile darts in the fi»)iU, begimiing at the top, and then com])lete the 
waist by basting the froiit and back together on the underarm seam. 

If you want to make a Freiicli Bias Dart, enlarge your secoiul 
dart a 1 2 inches. 



together, beginning 
the waist line meet. 




Illustration slinwing waist ready for basting. 



SLEE\'ES. 

To complete a waist, we must liavt- sleeves. We first make a plain, 
tight-titting sleeve, which is tlu' fmindatioii of all uthers 

We use the fi)llo\\inq- measures: Size of hand, inside arm length, from 
the arm pit to elbow, and from there to the wrist, mitsiife arni lenijth, and 
r.'easure around the arm, near the shoulder. 

Our first measure is the size of the hand. We measure around the 
largest part of the hand, near the knuckles, so as to have the sleeve lar.ge 
enuu.gh to allow the hand to pass throu.gh. See illustration. 




Then we measure the inside arm length. Place the end of the tape 
near the arm pit, measure down the elbow, mark the number of inches at 
that, and from there to the wrist, wTiling down the number of inches to 
there, also. 




54 



The next thiiifj we do is to measure all arouiul the arm. about three 
inches below the shoulder. Place the tape near ariu pit and measure all 
aroinid the arm, allowing twvj inches more. 



.->!r^TK 



Ci^ 




The next measure is the outside arm leiitrth. Place the tape on tlie 
outside of the armhnle. measure to elbow, wnting down the inches, and 
measure from elbow to the wrist. 




The measures should be written on the sheet of paper used for draft- 
ins^ in some place where the\' will not interfere with the drawing. 

Xow. we conmience to draft the sleeve, beginiiing with the hand. 

Now take a sheet of paper, a little longer tlian the sleeve will be. 

Draw a long, vertical line from left to right-hand side, and from the 
end of that line draw a straight line upward, forming right angle, almost to 
the edge of the jjaper. 



We are now ready to draft the sleeve. 

We will suppose our sample sleeve to !>e as foll<iws: X inches for size 
lit' hantl: 15 inches nrcumi the ann, near siiouldcr; inside lenq'lh, frrnn arm 
pit to elhow. g inches ; from elhow to wri^t. inside, /}, inches, inakinp; a 
total of I fij- inches: outside lensith from shoulder joint to the elbow, 14 
inches; outsiile, fn iin elhcnv to wrist, l;i inches, makins;' a total (i 24 inches. 

As a slecv<- consists of two parts, the upper part and under or lower 
part, which are sewed totjether, we divide the hand width measure and 
r.tni width n;easure acconhni;l\-. The upi)cr pari rei|uires nearh two- 
thirds of the full meai'tirc. and the lower part a litt'e more than one-third, 
tile two parts tints comiJOsinq: the full measure. 

( )ur hanil width measure is 8 inches. We divide this fo!' the up])er 
and under part, takint,' ahout 5 inciu's for the i'.])[ier ])art ami ^ incln's 
for the under part. 

The inside arm lenj;th is sliortc-r tlirn the oiUside leni;th. 

We therefore place the measure at the ri;.dit-hand end of the lower 
line (where it meets the horizontal line): measure two inches on that 
line and make a mark. I'roni this mark dr.aw a slantetl line for the up- 
per part of the skeve, as kntj as r(,(|uired hy our measuie, which is 5 
inches, to meet the liorizonal line, as in the next illustration. 

This line is for the np])er jiart of sleeve <.)n the hand. 

Now. we indicate the under iiart of th.e sleeve on the same line. The 
under part of the sleeve in our measare is 3 inches. We therefore make 
a mark on the slanted line 3 inches from the bottom liiv. 

Our complete inside ann length is 16 inches in our measure. We 
now place the measu'-e on the lower line, where the slanted line starts, 
antl measure 16 im. k.es ir. the left-hand direction and make a mark. 

Im-oiu this r.iark draw a Ioiilt horizontrd line upward, forming a right 
aigle: then measure backward on the lower line, make a mark o inches 
!i('m the last ujiward line, to indicate tlie ell)i w ji.iint. h'rom this mark 
draw a short horizontal line of I'j inches upward, then draw a s'anted 
line from long upward line >>v. the left-hand side to the Up of the short 
line in tlie centre, and irv.xn tl.ere ag.-ln to the end of slanted line on the 
right-hand side. 

These two slanted lines nnist be er.ived. in a manner similar to the 
darts in th'^ waist, making the curved lines abe)ut one-(|uarter inch from 
the ftraight lines in '.he centre-. (See- the ne.Kt i'lustr.ation.) 




,1(i 



This completes our inside line foi' Ix/th tlie upj^er and lower ]iart. 

Next we must divide the upper width of the sleeve, which is 15 inches, 
into two parts, one for the upper and one for the lower part of sleeve. For 
the lower part we use ahout one-lialf inch more than one-third of the full 
measure, which is 5' j inches, and the balance, which is o'j inches, is 
left for upjjer part. 

.\ow measure on the lonc^ upward line on the left-hand side, and make 
the necessary mark for the tipper sleeve, which is f)"/ inches from the 
lower line. 

As the under sleeve is always flrav.n inside of the t;])i)er sleeve, we 
make the mark for the under sleeve on tlie s;nne 1-ne, only 5JX inches 
ir.nn the bottom line. Next measure on the long; upward line at the other 
end of the I).-iiht, and make the same marks, one 5'/S inches and the (;ther 
c)''j inches fnim the bottom line, the same as on the, left-hand u])ward line. 
I'rom these last two marks on the rig-ht-hand side draw two loni; straig-ht 
vertical lints to meet the two mark;, on the left-hand upward line, runniui,' 
parallel, l)ut cxtendinff at least 8 inches further, so as to make them ful'y 
as lon<^ as \-our outside arnii length. 

We now complete the under sleeve. Our complete inside arm len.s^th 
is 24 inches — 10 inches from the wrist and 14 inches from shoulder to el- 

l)OW. 

.\'ow place the measure on the hand line, where the mark for the un- 
dcrsleevc was made, measure 10 inches in slant direction to meet the 
lona: line drawn ior the undersleeve, and draw a slant, line to that point. 
I'rom the same iioint measure 14 inches on the longi line, make a 
mark, and from that mark draw a curved line, as in illustration of sleeve, 
to the place where lower line and the lonsj, upward line meet. 

This completes the undersleeve. To omplete the upjier sleeve, we 
follow the same method. 

We measure 10 inches from the u[)per end of hand line, in a slant di- 
rection to the kmt; upper line, make a inark. and to that jjoint we draw a 
slant line, the same as we did for the under or lower sleeve. 

I'-roni: that point we measure again on the long, upper line, but, in- 
stead of making the mark 14 inches away, we make it 15 inches, so as to 
give more room for the elbow on the outside. From this mark we draw 
a long, cur\'cd line to meet the previous curved line, as in illustration y, 
Mr curve being in the opposite direction. 

This comjiletes the p'ain, tight-fitting sleeve, which is the foundation 
of all other stvlcs. 




LI':(;-( )|'-i\IL'TT( )X SLEEX'E. 

'i"ho ii;ost stylish tailur-inrulc sleeve is the sd-ealleci lei;'-of-niutti)n 
sleeve. It is useil for taili n'-niade ilresses. coats. I'.ton jackets, Encjlish 
waists, etc. 

To nial'Ce this st\le of sleeve, (h'aw aiiil cut mit llu' lis;ht-littinL; sleeve, 
as e.\|)laine(l before. .\s this sleeve lias oiih" tlie inside seam, place the iip- 
prr and uiidei pai t of slre\-e toijether on the outside line', as the illustra- 
tion shows. Cut waist and inside lines exactly, allow inj; 5 inches t'cir full- 
ness, as in illustration. 




Ley- of Mutton, or Tailor-made Sleeve. 



58 




Above cut represents the tailor made (or leg of mutton) sleeve 
finished. The tailor-made is the modern name for it. In finishing 
this sleeve, sew inside seam and shir it all around the top. 



59 



SKIRT. 

In order to draft a skirt pattern, we need the following- measurements: 

Front Length. 

Back Length. 

Hip Measure. 

To take the front length, measure from the cenjtre of the stomach 
to the toe of the foot, and have the lady stand ere/ct. Do not allow her 
to bend forward to see how, you measure as that will make the skirt 
too short. 

For the back length of th.e skirt measure froQi the centre of the back, 
at the waist line, to about one-half inch from the floor, or to suit the length 
you desire. 

The hip measure is taken in the same way as the hip measure for the 
waist, only a little tighter. 

We draft our pattern in a circle, conmiencing with the hip, and as we 
draw only a half pattern, we take half of the hip measure, less three inches, 
which we leave open for shirrmg. 

We will base our skirt ])attern on the following measurements: Hip, 
^8 inches; front length, 39 inches: and back length, 40 inches. 

Now take a square sheet of paper at least i i^ yards long and i ^ yards 
wide, which we get by pasting several sheets together. 

A skirt pattern requires two curved lines like circles, one for the top 
and one for the bottom. The first circle depends oni the hip measure. 

We begin our work by drafting the top circle. First, we drawf two 
long lines near the edge of the paper, forming a right angle in, the left- 
hand corner of the paper, as in the next illustration. We caiii dis]>ense 
with these two lines by using the edge of the paper, but we will use them 
in our exercise. The vertical line in front of you represents the front of 
llie skirl, and the other line is the back. 




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Now. measure about 17 inches on the front hne, and make a mark; 
t!icn measure aJjout 20 inches on the liack line, and make another mark, 
;ind then draw an evenly curved line frt.m one mark to the other, as in il- 
lustration. 

The size of the circle we draw deDcnds 011 the hip measure. In our 
sample skirt the hip is 38 inches.. As we draft only a half pattern, we 
take half of this measure, which is 19 inches, less 3 inches, which we leave 
open for shirring. 

Now, measure on the cirved line 16 inchi's from the front line and 
make a mark. From this mark measure 6 inches and make another mark. 
This completes the top circle. 

We nov.- draft a line fcir the bottom of the skirt. 

This is done by measu'-ing all around, 40 inches, which is our length 
measure from the top curved line, from the fri'iit 'ine to the back line. 

Iloth lines nuist be evenl\- cuived. If the cm-ves do not look njund 
like an umbrella, your hip curve is not cc^rrect, and is either too large or 
too small, and tl«e work nnist I>e done over again until it is correct. 

If the curves are good, we draw a slanted line from the last mark on 
the top curve to tlie left-hand end of the larger curve. Tliis slanted line 
is now our real back seam, and the space between this line and the outside 
line is cut out. 

The liotlom circle is the b(4ti)ni of the skirt, while the top line is the 
waist line. This is a skirt with one seam. 

SKIRT WTTM VW'R GORES. 

Place the m.easure six inches below the waist line on the outside 
front line; from there measure 6>4 inVches inside and make a, mark, and 
another mark in the same direction 16 inches from the front line; then 
riieasnre < n the bottom curved line and make a mark 13 inches from the 
front line, just twice as far as in the top litie; then draw a straight line 
from this mark, through the other mark aliove, to the small curve, which 
is the waist hue. 

.\'(iw, make two marks at the waist line, one on each side of the 
straiglu hne, just one-hrlf nich fn m it. and from these two marks draw 
two ciuwed Ihies 6 itches long to form peaked point at the mark made 
tluie, as in illustration. 

The space on the bottom curve, from the straight line to the left- 
hand end, is divided in half, making a mark in the centre, and from there 
a straight line is drawn tn the waist line, through the second mark, made 
if' inches from the front line. 

When cutting out allow seams. 



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